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so working on installing crown molding around the perimeter of the room recessed down some from the ceiling and we're going to use the philips hue shape lightstrip plus (part number 800276) i'm going to go around the perimeter inside the crown molding and this is the philips hue lightstrip and it's the crown molding profile that i mocked up see this is the profile and i chose... this profile, but we have to use a router to round off this part and this part on the wood this is the plug and this is the controller for the philips hue lightstrip plus

and i want to be able to get my hand up through the top of the crown molding to plug it in to that outlet that is controlled by this.... this switch here so i'm using a stud finder to mark two studs using a piece of tape directly above the stud finder where i locate the center of the stud. i'll have a link below to the stud finder i used (for purchase). [alright], so this piece has been cut on for you guys on both ends. the one is going to be for a scarf joint and the other is for a mitre for the corner and when i place this up here

i have a line that i use as a reference really just to get a measurement. i measured down five and half inches, so i'm going to place a block that i cut the five and a half inches on one end and the other block in the middle [picture in picture] i'm using the craftsman pneumatic nailer [video] ok so i'm going to use these same blocks... [video] to nail down the other end [video] and i'll do the same thing so this is an inside miter and an outside miter and so i cut this piece. we'll see if it works if i do too much you are going to see a lot of caulk [but] if it's perfect, and you'll barely see any caulk

and that's the build out right there, and it gives us plenty around for the lights to fit and for the power supply to be put up there. [that way...] i don't have to build out around the power supply alright, so i could measure this but it's better to take the board lay it on top and make a mark exactly where you want the cut to be and i usually do a couple passes. maybe three passes of cutting so that i'm not [cutting it] short i like to have as good a joints as i can get and without using caulk and here. i'm just continuing the process of marking the studs

we are going to use this piece here. this opposite piece for ensuring proper height along the the length [of the buildout of the crown molding profile] [alright], i got this piece and cut it fits nicely use my measuring block here [to ensure] the proper fit so i'm taking measurements here. this is for the two outside pieces one is going to be an an inside miter and outside miter and the opposite and now that i have the pieces cut i'm using the measuring block to ensure proper placement of

the second level and i'm just going to nail some some spots along the way. i try to keep it in line [with] the studs just in case it happens to go through i i do want to hit a stud but i'm using 2" [inch] nails. and considering that each piece is 3/4" thick that's an 1 1/2" and the drywall is 1/2" thick [so that's 2" total] chances of a nail going into a stud [through] the second level is unlikely don't want the nails too high because i don't want it to be in a way of the philips hue led lighting that i run [above the crown molding] so one thing i do wish i did and you may want to consider doing us

painting the wood ahead of time or at least painting the top part of the wood because when you have the white light reflecting off of the wood it gives a tannish hue to the ceiling [color casting] because of [the] reflection of the brown the tan wood so that right there is how high i want the crown molding from the bottom of the second piece of wood so i'll just make a little block to match this profile, so you have this block and i made...just push this [block] up against the bottom [then i use the pneumatic nailer to nail it]. working on the cutting crown molding you have to understand the

angles that you need to cut using a compound miter saw but i use the miter saw just the miter and i'll demonstrate that in another video how to test the inside and outside cuts on but here's a picture of what and inside cut and an outside cut look like it's like taking the measurements you know you try it you try to get the measurement from some reference point i'm using with the the bottom corner as a reference point, [so] when i cut it on the miter saw [its]

exact but i do it in such a way that i have to make two or three cuts. i don't mind making multiple cuts. i'd rather not waste material a little bit oversized, and then i might take a half a might take a half a blade off or a blade off [i mean using the miter saw blade] to get the correct size so here. i'm just testing what it's going to look like for a section. this is one section of lighting that i connect it up to the philips hue lightstrip plus and i'm continuing along with the crown molding. this is an inside miter that i cut and in the middle. there's a scarf joint and a scarf joint is nothing more than a 45 degree cut that you would make in the middle of baseboard

[two] to miter it. so one is an outside later once inside later and they overlap, so it doesn't appear like a question. it's a little bit more appealing not [likely] you're going to see the joint alright that gap in the upper corner of the crown molding [what] i did to fix that is i used cyanoacrylate glue which is super glue and i put it in between the joint and then i used a series of wood blocks to stack above the crown molding on the left on the right side to create some force from the ceiling and that

fixed the problem all right, so i'm talking now and the reason why you want to call because you want to fill in all the gaps so that to the eye. it's really tough to tell that there is a gap [kind] of fakes you out a little bit. i'm using a set of tools from that that's a caulk shaping tool, and you can see that little blue thing that i'm using there i'm using the sharp edge, but it has an advantage if i if i apply a dab of caulk to a flat surface i can scrape it off and the the clock you cannot tell

that it was used to fill in the hole so i used that in all the nail holes and along the profile of a of the crown molding or the casing so now i'm setting up the hue lights. i just want to get on working and identify how to set them up this is the kit that i got this is one one length with the controller and the power supply. i have two of these plus eleven other philips hue lightstrip lights. this is a kit [philips start kit 464479] i ordered off amazon. it's amazon certified. this is a set of three of the philips hue light bulbs and

the bridge and the bridge is required to communicate from the app to the philips lightstrip plus controllers and to the light bulbs all right, so is this a light bulbs and the bridge this bridge minute to come apart wirelessly. i'm sure and we have the adapter exactly, i got the key bridge plugged into the network as the internet clip and i open the philips hue app automatically searches for the bridge

sticks, it'll push the button on the ship okay agree, sugar update once i okay, so now we're going to set up the room. let's go to music studio okay three legs on the region [wall] it sees it, but it says it's on region 1 - it's right there alright, so thanks for watching this video. if you liked it give it a thumbs up if you didn't like you give a thumbs down leave a comment. if it helped you if you've done similar installations, what problems you had?

like i said joints on the crown molding. i fixed with cyanoacrylate glue include that at the end of the video here most importantly make sure you subscribe [and] check back in the future for more videos [about] the music studio and my V4DgjI-BIVM studio readers that will be coming up. thanks, dad here i'm stacking pieces of wood flooring [with] the foam piece up at the ceiling i'm taped with painters tape, so [it'll] mar the finish of the paint on the ceiling i

jammed them in there to bring a profile of the crown molding down so they'll meet evenly with the other side when that's pulled them. i do the same thing stacking the pieces in the other side but i don't put in the last piece a thin piece that will totally clamp it down i wait to put that piece in until i apply glue now. i don't have a good angle here, but i'm using cyanoacrylate glue that i got from hobby lobby. it's the slow drive i put a ton in there. i'm applying it now you can barely see it and i'm making sure that it fills the gap and any drips that came through to the surface i

quickly wiped off you wouldn't be able to tell anyway and then i installed the last piece of the flooring and the left stack to the left of the joint and that created pressure to to close the joint between the two pieces of crown molding [i] let that sit overnight i could have used the accelerator, but i chose not to [i] let it sit overnight and took the pieces off and

it's perfect the joint did not separate it is sealed and i went over it with caulk because the joint wasn't exactly perfect i could see a tiniest gap and that's what you want [to] do anyway you always want to apply caulk to any molding that you do to give it a professional look i'm really satisfied [with] the solution so hopefully you'll you'll be able to use this in the future if you do recess crown molding thanks again for watching

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